South Philly's newest cafe, Schmaltz, is a breakfast and lunch destination that has quickly gained popularity among locals. The brainchild of Jeremy Asch and Abby Armstrong, Schmaltz offers a unique take on traditional Jewish cuisine, focusing on a tight menu of latkes, blintzes, and egg sandwiches on house-baked English muffins. The cafe's signature sandwich, featuring an oniony potato pancake and a slow-baked egg, has become an instant hit, drawing lines out the door during its Friday-through-Monday service.
What makes Schmaltz stand out is its commitment to neighborhood accessibility and a casual counter-style approach. Asch and Armstrong bought the building at 1300 S. 18th St. in 2023, transforming it into a wide-open space with an espresso station, order counter, and various seating areas. The building's history as a DIY music venue, art gallery, and coffee shop adds to its charm.
The menu at Schmaltz is deliberately small, showcasing a blend of Ashkenazi and Eastern European flavors. The blintzes, made from Asch's recipe, are filled with lightly sweetened farmer's cheese and served with Chertock's homemade jam. The egg sandwiches, topped with potato pancakes and a Philadelphia-inspired hoagie spread, are a testament to the chefs' creativity.
Despite the term's cultural focus, Schmaltz is not a kosher restaurant or a political statement. Asch and Armstrong wanted to create a welcoming space that celebrates their heritage without inviting unnecessary problems. The cafe's opening has been met with overwhelming support, and the couple expects most regulars to come from within a few blocks rather than from Center City.
Schmaltz's success can be attributed to the chefs' diverse culinary backgrounds and the support of mentors like Judy Ni and Andy Tessier. Asch, who initially worked in clinical research, and Armstrong, with her experience in investment and wealth management, brought a unique perspective to the restaurant's operations. Chertock, the third member of the trio, has a deep restaurant résumé, having worked at various establishments like K'Far Cafe, Zahav, and Vernick Food & Drink.
In conclusion, Schmaltz is a testament to the power of community-driven initiatives and a celebration of cultural heritage. The cafe's unique menu, neighborhood accessibility, and supportive response from the community make it a must-visit destination for anyone looking to explore the diverse culinary scene of South Philly.
